Visit to Fundu Lagoon – Pemba Island, Zanzibar Archipelago (by Jonathan Everson)

Posted on 27th June 2022

I recently had the pleasure of visiting Fundu Lagoon Lodge – one of a handful of world class luxury lodges on the Island of Pemba in the Indian Ocean.  

Flights to Pemba Island are normally via Dar es Salaam / Zanzibar. I flew from Johannesburg into Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) and from there with Auric Air to Chake Chake Airport, Pemba.  Chake Chake is Pemba’s main airport, but you would be excused from thinking otherwise! The airport is tiny, although the runway is tarred. After very few formalities upon arrival at Chake Chake, over the glittering turquoise Zanzibar sea, I was met by a driver and transferred to the pier at Mkoani Port on the other side of Pemba Island, (approximately45 min transfer on a windy but decent tar road). From Mkoani it is another 10 to 15 min by speedboat to get to Fundu Lagoon.

Upon arrival, Ramon, the Spanish manager at Fundu Lagoon, welcomed me to the Lodge, and gave me a short introductory overview of the resort before showing me to my magnificent room, which had a stunning view of their private tidal beach and the warm and completely clear Indian Ocean.

Fundu Lagoon is a luxury lodge of a very high standard for Pemba. Management style is relaxed but efficient, with all members of staff passionately working towards ensuring a smooth operation.

Fundu Lagoon is beautifully positioned. Their long wooden pier for arrival and departure by speed boat enhances the feeling of being secluded on a deserted island. The reason the piers can be so long in Zanzibar is due to the extreme tidal differences there. The lodge is spread out over a large area and has a spacious and cool atmosphere throughout. Exploring Fundu Lagoon, and in particular finding their magnificent swimming pool and resident Flying Foxes well above the main lodge, is quite a workout!

There are so many things to do on Pemba Island, each being an adventure in itself: Village walks, island ruins, visiting the dense surrounding mangroves, snorkel on Misali island, turtles at Misali island, flying foxes, Pemba Museum, Chake Chake market, and street food at Chake Chake. Snorkeling on Misali Island (drift snorkel of around 45 min) was great, although it was sad to see that some of the coral was bleached or damaged. According to the knowledgeable onsite dive master one would have to venture out for a full day of scuba diving some way further out to sea in order to enjoy healthier coral. Nonetheless, the schools of fish at Misali Island impressed with their variety and colour. A large shoal of squid, a first for me, as well as the schools of yellow fin tuna were particularly memorable sights.

My stay a Fundu Lagoon was in all respects an amazing, world-class experience. The perfect way to end an African Safari.